Introduction

 

St-Jean-Pied-du-Port - Santiago de Compostela

    St-Jean-Pied-de-Port in France is a small town at the foot of the Great Pyrenees mountain range. 200m above sea level. The small village of Roncesvalles in Spain, sits at a level of 900m and is 25.5 km away. (16 miles) 

    Between them is the Col de Bentartea at 1390m. The path over this mountain is called  'Route Napoleon' a constant 20km (12 miles) climb from St Jean Pied de Port. The route is named because of its strategic importance during the Napoleonic wars. A very sound war strategist, but also a very cheeky chap called Napoleon, used it to successfully cross into Spain during the Peninsular War of 1808 -1813. Emperor Charlemagne was bouncing around this part of the world as well. Although they didn't meet, he was a thousand years earlier.

    There will be an opportunity to get a hot drink and a snack after 8km (5 miles) at the 'Refuge Orisson,' an established refuge where many (wiser than me) travellers choose to end their first stage and get a good nights kip before tackling the mountain proper. However, it is always fully booked in advance, with no chance of making an ad-hoc decision when passing it, to jack it all in and get a bed if the going gets too tough! (And many people do decide to pack it in and go home at this point, it's supposedly one of the toughest stages of the whole route.)

    This then outlines the first day of my adventure, a very steep introduction into walking 'Route Frances,' the route I have chosen from one of the many Camino paths in Spain and Portugal that all eventually lead to the City of Santiago de Compostela in Gallica, North West Spain.

    For over a thousand years, Pilgrims have trampled along Route Frances heading West with the sun at their backs. Once over the Pyrenees there is a further 800 km (500 miles) to go, the width of Northern Spain. It passes through the regions of Navarre, La Rioja, Castille, Leon, and Galicia. 

     You should all recognise the verse below, these are some of the original words from Pilgrims Progress. It was slightly adapted 300 years later for my favourite Hymn 'He Who Would Valiant Be.' A nice quirky version of that can be found here.

Hobgoblin nor foul fiend can daunt his spirit:

he knows he at the end shall life inherit.

Then fancies flee away,

he’ll fear not what men say,

he’ll labour night and day to be a pilgrim.

John Bunyan (1628-1688)

     

     To that end, from this weekend, I will be a Pilgrim, a peregrino, and this is my diary, to let you know what's going on and how I am doing, but most importantly, it's for you to scratch your head, as I am doing every day, and work with me as I try and understand why the hell I am doing this. 

It will take me about a month to complete if all goes well. No back up plan, no support or sponsorship, just me in some well worn boots and a rucksack on my back. 

    I will be staying at Le Chemin Vers l'Etoile in St-Jean-Pied-du-Port for Saturday 20th May 2023 and setting off over the Pyrenees at around 07.00hrs on Sunday.  

    Feel free to comment on any aspect of this blog, offer words of support, (or laugh at me) ask questions about my gear, or anything else, but please come back for another visit, because if the mysterious God of Wi-Fi is on my side, I will be uploading new content from along the Camino every evening until I finish.

A lot of you know me as 'Frank,' but for reasons of simplicity, (as my passport and credentials are in my given name of John) I will be walking and posting under that name.