Day 4. Pamplona- Urtega

     30 minutes of typing and posting pictures just lost, because the Internet router in my Albergue was accidentally switched off. 

     Welcome to Spain. Feel my pain. 

     I left Pamplona at 07.30, that's a fairly late start by pilgrimage standards. Of course I was woken early, (05.30) by the Korean jibber jabber. Why they are so disrespectful is beyond me. (I overtook them going up the Hill of Forgiveness. See later...)

     Walking though the soaking wet, cobbled streets of Pamplona as folk made their way to work was a joy. Most nodded, or said 'Buen Camino' but some looked the other way as if I was a homeless tramp. I don't blame them, I really wish them well in thier lives, it's the way of any City, and look at the state of me as I stopped for a fag and a coffee... 

     My plan today was to walk around 10km. Take it easy. Chill. 

     I couldn't get lost walking through this beautiful City, every 20 metres there is a Camino Shell embedded in the street. Just for us Peregrinos. 

     Plans change, of course they do, this is the Camino. I was feeling good at the 10km stage, so I decided to swerve past the local Albergue and tackle the famous 'Alto de Perdon.' (The Hill of Forgiveness)

     On the way up, I passed the same group of Koreans who had rudely woken me hours earlier, still giving it the big "jibber jabber" mouths continually talking but not much in the committed to walking department. They had a two hour head start on me. 

     Top tip Korea. Less talking and more walking. 

     The Hill.  Jeezus. Brutal. The views 'are fantastic' state the guidebooks, yeah, they are. What about a few words about what a simple Pilgrim has to endure to get there? Tossers.

     It's a muddy, stoney track three kilometres long and so steep you'd fall over backwards if you stood up straight and there's no respite... for all of those three kilometres... FFS.

     To the volunteers who look after this part of the Camino...Benches people. Benches. It's not rocket science. 

     I eventually made it to the top and although I didn't hang around, I just took a couple of pics, but this one taken for me on my phone by a French Cyclist called Michelle Eeeow, eeoa eeow. (I really wasn't listening and cared even less..).

     Rusty steel silhouettes of Peregrinos on a very windy hill. Very famous. Lot of effort to get this silly pose. 

     The views though, were indeed outstanding.

     But I'm committed now to a further 5 km walk to the next village. If I can't get a bed at the two private Albergues there, it's another five kilometres again. It was a crap decision to climb this hill. 

     For three kilometres down from the Hill of Forgiveness It looked like this...

     How I didn't break an ankle, or my bloody spine, is a wonder only The Camino can answer. It was insane. 

Then this... in the middle of nowhere...

And this...

      I walked in, and with a cheeky smile and my best Spanish... "Yo necesito uno cama para uno persona esta noches por favor"

     I need a bed for tonight please. Just me.

     They were fully booked on line. I'd checked last night. These private accommodations always are. But, bloody hell, I get a bed in the dormitory for €16. Result. There are only two left, so the group of Koreans can stroll on.

     And...I get a pilgrim dinner with a bottle of red wine for €10. Three courses. Mixed Salad, Navarre stew and chips and an ice cream for dessert. 

     Perfect. It really was. 

      "The Camino Will Provide". Not what you want, but what you need. 

I really am knackered.

Tomorrow is another day. Full of more loose plans, probably.

Buen Camino mi amigos.